A rustic beach vacation on the Oaxacan coast
Visit the sleepy secret fishing village that I can't stop going back to
The easiest way to discover the underrated gems of a region is to go where the locals go. Of course, finding out where that is can be tricky. Ask on the internet and you’ll likely be rebuffed (locals recognize the value of their hidden gems, and they don’t want to see them lose value from over-exposure). Ask in-person, and your interlocutor will likely point you in the direction of destinations other tourists like, in an effort to be helpful. You are, after all, a tourist whether you’d like to admit it or not.
I uncovered San Agustinillo because I lived in the Mexican state of Oaxaca for nearly a year. Over the course of that year I spent enough time with people from Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico that I eventually learned of some of the better and less known destinations in Mexico. San Agustinillo is among my favorites.
If you are familiar with the beach destinations of the Oaxacan coast, you’re likely thinking of Puerto Escondido or Huatulco. Puerto Escondido is a famous surf destination and home to several big annual surf competitions. It’s a medium-sized town of 30,000 with no shortage of youth hostels, Airbnbs and luxury second homes owned by Americans. It retains a crunchy surfer dude vibe and is an all around perfectly fine place to visit. Huatulco is an inland mid-sized city of around 50,000 about two hours south of Puerto Escondido. It offers easy access to the Parque Nacional Huatulco and number of upscale resorty beach destinations. Both have decent airports, and are great places to fly into if you are trying to get to San Agustinillo.
San Agustinillo is about halfway between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco. It’s a tiny fishing village that is slightly conjoined with another tiny fishing village, Mazunte. I say fishing village, but the truth is tourism is the main economic activity up and down the Oaxacan coast. Mazunte has a sea turtle sanctuary organization and rehabilitating the sea turtle population is a great accomplishment of the local community.
The people you’ll encounter in San Agustinillo are mostly crunchy Chilangos or Defeños (both slang terms for people from Mexico City). As such, Spanish is primarily spoken. You may also encounter European tourists but the local and tourist population is primarily Mexican.
The beaches around San Agustinillo and Mazunte are not particularly long or wide, they aren’t an unusual color like pink or blue and they abut waters that are neither remarkably clear or calm or warm. Instead they are unassuming and moderate beaches of grainy sand and silty water. The waves are small and great for beginning surfers but there’s an occasional undertow that you should be mindful of. The shore is dotted with affordable hotels and cabanas, and recreating families that evoke a kind of Latin Norman Rockwell.
If you are hoping to do yoga, get a massage or see dolphins there are plenty of people who provide those services in San Agustinillo. But you likely won’t be able to book ahead of time. Just show up. The dueño of whatever hotel or house you stay at can likely point you in the right direction. Or just wander around the beach or sit at a cafe looking flush—it won’t be hard, the locals will know you for what you are—and eventually someone will ask you if you’d like a boat ride to a snorkeling destination.
It’s hard to pinpoint what is so delightful about San Agustinillo. It evokes for me the middle class simplicity of the less famous beaches of Rhode Island and Maine. And, indeed, San Agustinillo is affordable. The Mexican tourists you’ll encounter there are professors, therapists, artists and musicians with their families.
Don’t let me undersell it, though. The popular nearby hike at Punte Comete is spectacular. If you go at the right time of year you can help baby sea turtles survive their perilous journey to the sea. You will see hundreds of dolphins if you do take a boat ride. And the evenings will find you strolling along the beach beneath pink sunsets that rival any in the Caribbean.
So if you’re looking for an affordable, family-friendly beach vacation that is at-yet unspoiled, go and go soon. The signs of looming transformation were already visible when last I was in San Augustinillo. But I imagine the quiet sweetness of the place will linger for a little while longer still.
Getting there:
You should fly into Huatulco or Puerto Escondido in Oaxaca. They are small airports but major tourist thoroughfares so there are plenty of flights from Dallas, LA, or Mexico City that will get you there.
From either Puerto Escondido or Huatulco you can take a cab (about $100) or a bus (cheaper but kind of a hassle) to the village of San Agustinillo.
Where to Stay:
San Augustinillo is rather remote compared to the nearby tourist areas. There are a number of other small towns nearby but I would strongly encourage you to pick a place in San Agustinillo. The other nearby villages have a little bit of that weird, tourist, hippy, vibe.
I always stay at "Un Sueño Cabanas Del Pacifico" They have a number of cabanas right on the sand, yards from the ocean (that cost around $100/night). All the cabanas have mosquito nets and are fairly open to the elements. If you need silence to sleep, be sure to bring ear plugs.
I believe you can email them in English.
If you really want a proper house, my advice would be to go on Airbnb and pick out something close to the beach in San Agustinillo. There are lots of lovely houses, inns, and apartments in the village.
Where to eat:
Un Sueño has its own cafe. If you get bored there, the beach is dotted with restaurants, like La Posada Termita, that serve simple Mexican beach fare (pizza, french fries, fish tacos, fruit salad). If you’re a foodie you’ll likely be disappointed in San Agustinillo (and you should consider a trip to the city of Oaxaca instead). But if you’re comfortable with simple salty foods you’ll do just fine.
There are not that many grocery stores because it's a village but there are plenty of tiendas and veggie stands within walking distance. I’ve never tried to cook my own meals while visiting San Agustinillo, and I wouldn’t really recommend it.
What to do:
I recommend making no plans in advance. An over scheduled vacation is a stressful vacation. Once you are in San Agustinillo you may very well find that a repetitive and simple schedule of eat/beach/repeat will more than satisfy you.
If you are craving an excursion there is a turtle conservation center in Mazunte, a bioluminescent lakes nearby, and some beautiful coastal cliff hikes. As I mentioned you can also easily pay someone to take you out in a boat to see dolphins and turtles, or sign up for surf lessons, yoga classes or massage therapy. All of these experiences are easy to identify once you are in San Agustinillo and I’m not aware of any way to book them in advance. Just show up and ask
If, when you’ve tired of the beach you find you aren’t yet ready to return home, hop on a 20 minute AeroTucan flight to the beautiful mountain town of Oaxaca for a culinary/arts and crafts vacation. Or go for a single night, if you weary of the sound of waves.
